It is unknown how long surfing has been around, but explorers to the Polynesian Islands observed natives doing it in the 1700’s. The art of surfing is a great way to discover the nature of water, as well as the enormous power it holds.
There are many dangers of surfing which include rip currents, very strong oceanic currents that carry everything in them further out to sea. A surfer must learn to respect this power and learn how to ride a wave without going against the current. Surfing, like all water sports, carries the inherent danger of drowning. Anyone at any age can learn to surf, but should have at least intermediate swimming skills.
Many surfers claim that once mastered, the art of surfing brings them to a place of feeling spiritually whole and complete. It is the act of being one with the water, swimming in it, riding the waves, and bowing out to catch the next one.
Even the rip tides are useful when surfers are going out further to catch the big waves. Some countries have tried to build man-made reefs to create bigger waves and attract surfing business; however, this usually does not work and the artificial reefs are removed. Nature has a way of creating the perfect underwater landscapes that no one can compete with. The result: a wonderful group of cresting waves perfect for the next surfer’s conquest.